I arrived in St Malo by Brittany Ferries with the kind of view that makes you press your face to the window—the walled old town lifting straight out of the water, light dancing on the waves, and a salty breeze promising adventure. Before the ferry even docked, I knew this weekend was going to be special.
Saint-Malo is a coastal charmer with golden beaches, dramatic tides, and ramparts that wrap the old town like a stone embrace. This post is the first in a three-part series from my weekend escape. I’ll share everything you need to know for St Malo here, with separate guides to Mont-Saint-Michel and Dinan coming next
Getting There & First Impressions
The Brittany Ferry ride from Portsmouth is half the fun—seriously, grab a window seat and watch Saint-Malo appear on the horizon like a movie set. It’s the perfect weekend escape without even needing a plane ticket.
The moment you see the stone walls hugging the coastline, you’ll know you’re in for something special. Saint-Malo was once a fortified island and a haven for privateers (basically, French pirates with permission from the king!). Walking into the old town feels like stepping into a storybook—cobbled streets, ocean views, and the smell of buttery crêpes drifting on the breeze.
Pro Tip: If you’re arriving by ferry in the early morning, step onto the deck for sunrise—it’s pure magic watching St Malo’s walls glow pink against the sea.
Saint-Malo by Day and Night!
Start by wandering Les Remparts de Saint-Malo, the 12th-century walls rebuilt after WWII bombings. They still circle the old town like a protective embrace and offer sweeping views of the sea, beaches, and slate rooftops. Take your time here—the salty air and photo ops are unreal.
By day, Saint-Malo bustles with beachgoers and markets. But by night, warm lights glow on stone buildings, bistros hum with chatter, and the waves beyond the walls sound almost theatrical. Experiencing both vibes is non-negotiable.
Pro Tip: Head to the ramparts just before sunset—the golden light makes the ocean and rooftops look unreal, and the crowds thin out.
Beaches, Views & Little Surprises
Spread out your towel on Plage de l’Éventail or Grande Plage du Sillon, both framed by those iconic walls. For a quieter scene, head to Plage des Bas Sablons for marina views.
Climb to Champs-Vauvert Cavalier for a sweeping panorama of the coastline and Fort National—a 17th-century sea fort built to protect St Malo from invaders.
Step inside Saint-Vincent Cathedral, begun in the 12th century and lovingly restored after heavy WWII damage, to admire its stained-glass windows and peaceful atmosphere.
And if you catch a flea market in the old town, take a wander.
Pro Tip: Tides in Saint-Malo are some of the highest in Europe—check tide times before heading to the beaches or Fort National, or you might find your path back underwater!
Where to Eat, Drink & Stock Up
Start your morning with coffee at Cavour Coffee Spot, perfect for fueling up before exploring.
For lunch or a late breakfast, Crêperie Le Tournesol serves crêpes so good you’ll consider ordering a second “for research.”
Dinner at Bistro Autour du Beurre Bordier is a must— has an incredible menu.
End your evening at La Mer à Boire, a cozy wine bar where local bottles and platters serves.
Before you leave, make Les Fromagers Malouins your must-stop for the best local cheeses—you’ll thank yourself later. And for pure pastry heaven, Emulsion Boulangerie Pâtisserie will exceed every dream you’ve ever had about French baking.
Pro Tip: Make dinner reservations if you’re visiting on a weekend—popular spots fill up fast, especially during summer.
Why St Malo Stays With You
From pirate legends and WWII resilience to golden sands, dreamy pastries, and crêpe-filled afternoons, Saint-Malo wraps you in coastal magic. It’s the kind of place you leave already plotting your return.
